The opening moves
Michael Crane
To begin a game of backgammon each player rolls one dice into the table on their right-hand
side, (never into the table on your left-hand side); and, as long as the die lays flat upon the
playing surface (not on top of any men) the player rolling the higher die takes both dice as his
opening roll.
If both players roll the same number (66, 55 or any doublet) then both roll again; this
means that you never start the game with a doublet (although the 2nd move - someone's first -
can be).
Opening moves are in three categories: 1. Point Makers, 2. Builders and 3. Runners.
1. Point Makers: As the name
implies these rolls start out doing the very thing you set out to do, make points. They are (in
order of preference):
| 31 |
8/5, 6/5 |
a |
| 61 |
13/7, 8/7 |
b |
| 42 |
8/4, 6/4 |
c |
| 53 |
8/3, 6/3 |
d |
| 64 |
8/2, 6/2 |
e |
- The best point to hold (called
The Golden Point) in either table.
- The bar-point (7-point) blocks
your opponent's 6s and makes it difficult to escape the back men (the runners).
- Makes an important inner
point.
- As deep as you really want to
be. Perhaps a little too deep (it's better to keep points closer together, but nonetheless,
worth making as a beginner (see 6-4 Runner).
2. Builders: Although single
men are blots they are also builders for points (as is any spare man on a point or points
themselves in many cases) and these are:
| 54 |
13/8, 13/9 |
a |
| 43 |
13/9, 13/10 |
a |
| 52 |
13/8, 13/11 |
a |
| 32 |
13/10, 13/11 |
a |
| 21 |
13/11, 24/23 |
b |
| 41 |
13/9, 24/23 |
b |
| 51 |
13/8, 24/23 |
b |
- These moves are mid-point
builders (13-point) and are only vulnerable to an indirect hit (i.e. the roll of two dice is
required to hit - e.g. anything greater than a 6). Although these blots might be hit the benefits
are worth the risk - and backgammon is about taking calculated risks. Say you left a blot only 6
points away (a direct shot) from an opponent's man; it will be hit 17 rolls out of 36,
but if you leave an indirect of say 7 or 8 points away then only 6 out of 36 (maximum shots for an
indirect shot) will hit. So, when considering leaving a blot/builder remember to keep well away
from your opponent'smen.
- These are splitting builders,
creating builders for the outer/home board and starting a runner (backman) off, the runner
threatening your opponent's tables with a possible direct or indirect shot.
3. Runners: These are men
played from the 24-point, your backmen. These are:
| 65 |
24/13 |
|
| 64 |
24/14 |
a |
| 63 |
24/15 |
|
| 62 |
24/16 |
|
- This move can also be a 2-point
maker.
Although doublets are not
technically opening rolls they are the first roll for one player. These (if possible) are the
standard opening moves:
| 66 |
24/18(2), 13/8(2) |
|
| 55 |
13/3(2) |
|
| 44 |
13/5(2) |
a |
| 33 |
8/5(2), 6/3(2) |
b |
| 22 |
13/11(2), 6/4(2) |
c |
| 11 |
8/7(2), 6/5(2) |
|
- Alternative 44 moves are moving
the back men 24/20(2) with 13/9(2) or 8/4(2).
- Alternative 33 moves are making
the bar point in either table by playing 13/7(2) or 24/18(2), or any combination moving 24/21(2)
and any other legal move.
- Sometimes 22 is played as a
Golden Point maker by playing 24/20(2).
Exercise 6: Set up the board and practice moving all the opening moves, including doubles
until you are adept at making the standard opening moves to such an extent that you don't have
to think what to do but do so instinctively.
When you have mastered the opening
moves it's time to play a game! This time you are on your own, remember, try to move
safely and use (safe) builders to make points and primes as you progress towards the finish.
Keep well away from direct shots and leave as little as possible for your opponent to hit
but at the same time remain flexible. Try to have a strategy in mind and be prepared to abandon it
when things don't go the way you anticipated; but always have a back-up plan!
Using these guidelines you will soon
become addicted to the exciting game of backgammon - and then you'll need to study a few books
to improve your game. That's when you'll need to know what to do with the doubling cube
(the large 'dice' on the bar with the '64' face showing in Diagram 7), but,
until you master the art of moving, priming, and bearing off the doubling cube will have to
wait.
